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08/09秋冬时装周推荐

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Ralph Lauren 08/09 秋冬女装成衣发布会

NEW YORK, February 8, 2008 – The antler chandeliers spray-painted gold were the first clue that we were in for a change of scenery. After throwing what will go down in fashion history as one of its grandest parties ever for his 40th anniversary last September, Ralph Lauren swapped Central Park for Colorado. His Western family retreat, the Double RL Ranch, has provided inspiration for many of his famous signatures, and he reprised several of them today with superb results.

Lauren opened with a series of city dresses and suits in cashmere herringbone and black double face cut close to the body. But he didn't linger long in this urban terrain (smart thing; the leopard-print pieces weren't a good fit with the rest of the collection). Soon we were heading West to the land of green border-stripe swing jackets, red-and-black buffalo plaid suits, and cozy blanket coats. He worked these Ralph-isms with customary expertise, coming up with unexpected combinations like a fitted plaid hunting jacket with a spry little mini in a buffalo check, or a cashmere plaid shirt unbuttoned to reveal a glam necklace (Lauren lined up a stunning list of jewelers for the show, including the Gem Palace) and tucked into a sassy tulle skirt covered in beads and feathers. Of course, many of these outfits will look just as at home in Manhattan as on the range.

The plaids lingered after dark—some, like a winning high-necked gown that fanned out below the knees, more successfully than others. But his evening wasn't one-note. He showed supple draped velvets, two of the prettiest in a deep hunter green and a garnet decorated with beads. And for something more dramatic, there was a black tulle gown with a cutaway back. Lauren knows that wherever his ladies take themselves, country or city, they always pack a party dress.

– Nicole Phelps

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marc jacobs 08/09 秋冬女装成衣发布会

NEW YORK, February 8, 2008 – "We're ready, we're ready to start the show." That was Marc Jacobs himself, addressing the audience from the stage (stage, not runway) at 7:11 p.m. At 7:17, as Kevin Federline was still taking his seat in one of the makeshift, nightclub-style VIP booths not far from Selma Blair, Gretchen Mol, and Helena Christensen, Sonic Youth struck the first dissonant chord of "Jams Run Free," and Jacobs' first model walked out past the band. She wore a shawl-collar pouch-back coat in a shade that looked like camel, although we can't say for sure, concert lighting not being the best kind to illuminate such details. (One thing was immediately clear—whether he shows on a Friday or a Monday, it's always going to be an event.)

The day switch and that revolutionary mere-17-minutes-behind-schedule start time weren't the only changes since last season. If Spring was all about sex, overt sex specifically, this show—his old friend Kim Gordon's gyrations notwithstanding—had a willfully sedate quality.

Afterward, when asked about his inspirations, Jacobs replied, "I really wasn't very inspired this season. I just live my life." OK. When pressed, he offered a few more words: "Calm. Glamour. Casual. Beautiful women." Vague as that sounds, it was in fact an apt description for a collection that hinted at the eighties of Jacobs' early days in New York. It was there in the puffy headbands the models wore around their foreheads and the clubby atmosphere inside the Armory (some said it gave them Regine's, though the set's menacing scaffolding and the unsettling black-and-white images that played on a screen behind the band also suggested a more downtown environment). And it was there in the palette of soft pastels and grays and the relaxed (in terms of shape, not sensibility), somewhat masculine cut of the classic clothes.

Jacobs showed plain-front button-downs with straight skirts; almost preppy popcorn-knit sweaters with narrow shorts; a cashmere sweater that spelled out HARDCORE paired with baggy leather pants; and a thigh-length bomber over a full, shin-grazing skirt. But his big focus was jackets and coats, many of which came with vertical folds of fabric gathered in the back above wide, hip-slung sashes. Dresses, too, came with pronounced volumes at the back. For evening, their stiff folds were replaced by gold or silver lamé pantsuits (paging Loulou de la Falaise) and drippy bias-cut velvet gowns.

Was this collection, in its relative tameness and intriguing air of sexless safety, a rebuff of sorts to last season's detractors, who reprimanded Jacobs as much for his off-the-wall collection as for his perennial lateness? Could be. These clothes are challenging for different reasons than were the difficult transparent pieces he featured for Spring, but they'll be no less coveted. As for the show's accessories, women everywhere will have Jacobs to thank when other designers follow his lead and start producing a lower heel. That's the power of Jacobs' mystique.

– Nicole Phelps

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marc by marc jacobs 08/09 秋冬女装成衣发布会

NEW YORK, February 5, 2008 – Marc by Marc Jacobs usually follows the designer's main show by about 18 hours. But with his signature collection scheduled for the last day of New York fashion week, looking at his diffusion line this season felt a bit like reading tea leaves. Does the eighties-ish new-wave vibe of the clothes on today's runway in any way predict what we'll see come Friday?

A blue tweed shift with a stand-up collar and a drop waist, accessorized to the hilt with shades, beret, and checked bag, kicked things off. Following that, Jacobs showed a few pairs of pants, slouchy and full through the upper legs. But this was a girly collection, long on dresses and skirts. The former came in podlike shapes (a supersized green and black houndstooth) or nipped at the waist above flaring hoop skirts (a witty fishnet print), while the latter appeared as bubbles, cheerleader minis, and lamp shades. Also in the mix was some great outerwear—everything from a belted, boxy man's single-breasted jacket to a black trapeze coat with a checkerboard of patent leather below the waist. We'll have to wait a few days for the big reveal, but there was plenty in this bright, playful lineup to keep Jacobs' fans happy in the meantime.

– Nicole Phelps

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Calvin Klein 08/09 秋冬女装成衣发布会

NEW YORK, February 7, 2008 – In nearly five years at Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa has proven that he's the most precise of designers, and his Fall collection was almost regimental in its . The models were nearly makeup-free, their hair pulled back in severe ponytails, and the clothes were just as uncompromising.

After Spring's dress-heavy lineup, Costa zeroed in on tailoring, opening with a cashmere mantle coat in deepest navy that topped a fitted shirt and a straight-line skirt. Their clean surfaces set an austere mood from which the designer hardly deviated. A color-blocked A-line shift followed a collarless jacket worn with pencil-thin leggings, and an overscale, boxy men's jacket followed an asymmetrical, away-from-the-body boiled wool dress. Two coats, one single-breasted, the other double (not that there was a button or closure to be seen), were deceptively simple and simply beautiful. Other toppers were razor-cut at the lapels to reveal a flash of what the model was wearing underneath.

Costa has had a big year, crisscrossing the globe several times to promote the brand and cultivating important celebrity relationships along the way. Liv Tyler, who was to co-host his after-party at the Waverly Inn, sat front and center, next to Ali Larter. It's curious, then, that the designer showed only three special-occasion dresses: accordion-pleat gowns that draped from one shoulder or dipped low in front. Their metallic silk glittered under the runway lights, but it wasn't quite enough to generate real fashion excitement. Indeed, the audience for a collection as rigorous as this may be limited. Still, fans of Costa's brand of minimalism came away more than satisfied.

– Nicole Phelps